You've decided you want to embrace your curls, but then comes the big question: where do you start? What products do you use, and why does everyone seem to have a different answer?
If you’re new to curly hair, this guide covers the basics, from understanding your curls to building a simple routine that makes your curls look great without overwhelming your mornings.
First, let’s get to know your curls a little better.
Understanding Your Curls
Knowing your curls makes it easier to figure out which styling techniques work for you, what products to use and, most importantly, what your hair actually needs.
When it comes to curly hair, there are three things worth knowing: porosity, density and texture.
Hair Porosity
Porosity is basically how well your hair absorbs and holds moisture, and it can make a big difference when choosing your products.
There are three types: low, medium and high porosity.
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Low porosity hair has tightly packed cuticles, which makes it harder for water and products to get in. Your hair may take longer to get wet, and heavy products can leave it weighed down or prone to buildup.
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Medium porosity hair: Your hair absorbs and holds moisture fairly well, so you can usually use a wider range of products. Basically, you’ve won the porosity lottery!
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High porosity hair has a more open cuticle, so it absorbs moisture easily but can lose it just as quickly. Your hair may feel dry, rough, or tangle easily, and richer products may work better.
And one more thing: genetics can also play a role in your hair’s porosity. So, high porosity hair isn’t always the result of bleach, heat, or chemical treatments.
Hair Texture
Next up is hair texture, which refers to how thick an individual strand of hair is. Your strands can be fine, medium or coarse, and this can affect which products and techniques work best for you.
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Fine hair has very thin strands that can be difficult to feel between your fingers. It also tends to get weighed down by heavy products more easily.
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Medium hair sits somewhere in between. You can feel the strand when you roll it between your fingers, but it doesn’t feel particularly thin or thick.
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Coarse hair has thicker, more noticeable strands and can usually handle richer, heavier products better than fine hair.
Got coarse or fine hair? Check out our tips on how to care for and style coarse hair and how to care for and style fine hair.
Hair Density
Hair density is how much hair you have growing on your scalp. You can have fine hair with high density or coarse hair with low density, so calling your hair “thick” or “thin” doesn't always tell us much.
If you can easily see your scalp through your hair, you likely have low density. If you can only see your scalp when you part your hair, you probably have medium density. If it's harder to see, you likely have high density.
Density doesn't determine the best products for you. We use density to determine how much of those products we recommend you use. As a starter rule of thumb, the amount of styling product you apply is equal to the size of your ponytail when squeezed between your fingers. You can adjust from here based on what you're using, but it's a good starting point!
Building a Simple Beginner Curly Hair Routine
As a beginner, you really only need a few things to get started: a shampoo, conditioner, leave-in conditioner or curl cream, and a gel.
Your routine can then be broken down into four simple steps: cleanse, condition, style and dry.
1. Cleansing Your Curls
Before you get started, you’ll want to give your hair and scalp a reset with a clarifying shampoo. This helps get rid of oil, product and mineral buildup, giving your hair the fresh start it needs before making changes to your routine.
Here are some to check out:
You don’t need to clarify every wash. Every two to four weeks should be fine.
For your regular wash days, you can choose between a shampoo or co-wash. The idea is to cleanse your scalp without unnecessarily stripping your hair of its natural oils, which can leave your curls feeling dry over time.
A co-wash is basically a cleansing conditioner. It doesn’t lather like shampoo but gives you a gentler cleanse while adding moisture. Co-washes are best for dryer or coarser hair. Finer hair or anyone more prone to build up usually benefits from shampoo (keep reading for our suggestions) instead.
Here are a few good co-washes to try:
With shampoo, you can keep things gentle with options that suit all hair types like Jessicurl Gentle Lather Shampoo, Only Curls All Curl Cleanser, Inahsi Soothing Mint Sulfate Free Gentle Shampoo and Curlsmith Full Body Weightless Cleanser. These will usually provide a more thorough clean than a co-wash, without as many moisturizers.
2. Conditioning and Detangling
Apply your conditioner through your mid-lengths and ends. Once you get that slimy, seaweed-like feeling, gently detangle with your fingers, starting at the ends and working your way up. You can also use a wide-tooth comb, detangling brush or Denman brush.
One important rule: only brush your hair when it’s wet and has some form of conditioner in it. Never brush your curls dry. Dry brushing can lead to breakage, frizz, and frustration!
For an everyday conditioner, here are a few faves:
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Innersense Pure Inspiration Daily Conditioner (if you have fine to medium hair)
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Innersense Hydrating Cream Conditioner (if you have high-porosity, coarse or particularly thirsty hair)
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Inahsi Soothing Mint Conditioner (very slippery and great for detangling!)
3. Styling
Now comes the fun part: styling your curls!
The most popular styling product, and one you can often use alone to keep things really simple, is gel. When choosing a gel, pay attention to the ingredients. You’ll want to be mindful of drying alcohols and silicones, but don’t automatically write off a product just because you see either on the list. The type of ingredient and the overall formulation matters more.
You’ll also want to think about how much hold you want. Gels come in different levels of hold. Hard hold gives you the most staying power, medium hold gives you a balance of hold and movement, while soft hold gives you a softer finish with more bounce. Soft-hold styling gels can work particularly well for finer or looser curls and low-porosity hair or anyone who doesn't like the "crunch" of a gel cast.
Here are a few top gels to check out:
Hard Hold
Medium Hold
Soft Hold
Once you've applied your gel, take your time shaping your curls because the way they settle is pretty much how they’ll dry. This is especially true with a soft-hold product as there won't be a cast to scrunch out to release the curls.
Try not to touch your curls while they dry, as this can disturb your curl pattern and create frizz.
4. Drying Your Curls
You can either air-dry or diffuse. We recommend air-drying halfway before diffusing, or diffusing from the start if you’re short on time. Just don’t leave your hair wet for too long, as the weight of the water can pull your curls down and leave them flat. If you’re diffusing, use a heat protectant and low heat.
Once your hair is completely dry, it may feel stiff. That’s your gel cast, and it’s a good thing! Gently scrunch your curls to break the cast, add volume and keep your definition. Your hands will do just fine, or you can use a tiny bit of oil or finishing serum.
If you're new to embracing your curls, adopting a simple cleanse - condition - style - dry routine can give you beautiful results without hours spent in the bathroom. Need further product help? Send us a message or book a virtual consultation!
